The Magic of the Mountain


Castelo dos Mouros, the Moorish Castle, has been on top of the mountain of Sintra for over 1000 years. When Portugal had its first King, D Afonso Henriques in 1154, it was used most for vigilance - never was it used for fighting battles. As the conquerers moved more southward, its importance was less and less, and it was left to ruin. The earthquake of 1755 did a lot of damage as well to what was left of it. It wasn't until early 1800's that King Fernando the 2nd started the restoration of this castle, erecting and fixing it once again, making paths from the Santa Maria area to it so that the people of Sintra could enjoy the mountain and the romantic aura that it provides.

In my morning paths I love to walk up to the Moorish castle. A round trip from Casa do Valle takes roughly an hour - including my stops for photos and a drink from the fountain. I also usually go with a dog, so it does keep my pace steady. And what a treat it is! Passing through the sleepy village, with the lingering scent of warm pastries, up the narrow cobble-stone streets, passing the Sabuga fountain and the church of Santa Maria to the revolving doors ---
And that is when it happens: the explosion of sensory stimulus!

It is like entering a fairy land. First the sight - the deep, dark greens of the trees and undergrowth, the ivy and other climbing plants against the light brown of the tree bark and the gray and red of the granite boulders. All enhanced with the morning dew. The imensity of the trees is such you feel really tiny, like somehow as you passed through those doors, you did not enter the forest, but into a wonderland.

Then the scent - of the eucalyptus, the pine, the redwood. And of course the sweeter smells of the flowers and moss. And it is so subtle you can taste it! Then the hearing - the birds calling, the subtle wind moving the leaves, the falling branches. As on the edge, listening to hear what's next. The touch is the trickiest - the light breeze moves softly through your hair - and today I was so lucky as to be there when the morning mist was rising, and the rapid passing of it plays on the skin of your face, almost like rain, but not quite.
And then for the explosion (the sixth sense): The sun burning through the mist, making the leaves glisten and giving the mountain the air of mysticism, only you are not looking from down below - you are right in it! What a feeling! Surreal, like on a set of some movie with special effects, only this is real. You forget the aching of your calf muscles and the out-of-breath feeling seems to disappear as you look around and thank your Lord for yet another fantastic morning!

(And I might add that having asthma, the air full of eucalyptus keeps your pipes well open).


I had my Iphone with me today and took a few pictures. Quality is not the greatest but you'll get the idea. And you will probably understand why I plan to go again tomorrow.

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