'Uma meia de leite da máquina, sff!'
Recently coffee has been in the news in Portugal: it seems that each Portuguese consumes a little over 4 kgs of coffee a year. This is an equivalent of 1-2 coffees per person per day, well below the 6kg per person European average (and much below the Finnish 10kgs/person/year average). This surprised me, as it seems that there is a coffee shop in every street corner and they do have a lot of custom! The Portuguese may not drink as much coffee as you would imagine, but boy have they made it a wonderful habit!
Most Portuguese drink the strong expresso type coffee and mostly not at home. A morning coffee on the way to work, another after lunch, and a third one after dinner, especially if the dinner has been in a restaurant. This is the typical scene and can continue to be so as long as coffee continues as reasonable as it is. When you visit a Portuguese house, however, contrary to the Northern European habit that I am used to, you will not be offered a coffee, but a glass of wine, a beer, a glass of water or juice. Coffee is for restaurants and coffee shops (though in all fairness, in the last year or so the expresso machines have sold very well and more and more people are buying one for their homes).
Outside the shops, the name of the coffee brand served is mentioned, and most people have a favourite brand: Tofa, Sicala, Delta.... People are often faithful to a brand and when they have a choice, they will choose the shop according to the brand.
So what do they drink? The coffees with milk are usually served in the morning and maybe at a snack time in the afternoon - never on top of lunch or dinner. And never would you find coffee as a drink WITH meals, like an alternative to water or wine; always after dessert. Here is a short description of different coffees that you can ask for. Notice that the names apply to the coffee drinks in this region, they may vary a little in different regions.
Then there are the coffees with more milk:
And what does this all cost? 60-90-1,20. This is the basic rule. 60 cents for a coffee, 90 cents for a meia de leite and 1,2 euros for a galão. This is when you are inside the coffee shop, or when there is, at the counter. If you are served to the table or especially if you are served out in the terrace, there are different prices for the same itens. Count with 30-100% extra (80-1,5-1,8). I did a quick survey in Sintra about the coffee prices. Cheapest coffee is at the 'Padaria' or the bakery in the middle of town: 55ç. Most expensive in the terraces: 1,8 or 1,9€ for a bica. And beware - there are a few places that have a price for 'cappuccino' (3-4€) but they will serve you either a meia de leite or meia de leite with whipped cream on top, and not necessarily a true capuccino. In The historical Center our clients have preferred the 'Padaria', 'Piriquita' and 'Village Café'.
The Portuguese coffee is very good. I love having the shops everywhere, and the opportunity to have the wonderful pastries with the coffee! The smell of the baked goods and strong coffee that lingers on the narrow streets in the morning is divine. I just advice you to check the prices charged for a coffee of the places by the door (all establishments must have the price list posted in a visible place near the entrance) so you know what to expect. And the pastries - that calls for another blog entry!
Most Portuguese drink the strong expresso type coffee and mostly not at home. A morning coffee on the way to work, another after lunch, and a third one after dinner, especially if the dinner has been in a restaurant. This is the typical scene and can continue to be so as long as coffee continues as reasonable as it is. When you visit a Portuguese house, however, contrary to the Northern European habit that I am used to, you will not be offered a coffee, but a glass of wine, a beer, a glass of water or juice. Coffee is for restaurants and coffee shops (though in all fairness, in the last year or so the expresso machines have sold very well and more and more people are buying one for their homes).
Outside the shops, the name of the coffee brand served is mentioned, and most people have a favourite brand: Tofa, Sicala, Delta.... People are often faithful to a brand and when they have a choice, they will choose the shop according to the brand.
So what do they drink? The coffees with milk are usually served in the morning and maybe at a snack time in the afternoon - never on top of lunch or dinner. And never would you find coffee as a drink WITH meals, like an alternative to water or wine; always after dessert. Here is a short description of different coffees that you can ask for. Notice that the names apply to the coffee drinks in this region, they may vary a little in different regions.
- Café ou 'bica' is the normal expresso-type coffee-drink served in a small cup of about 6 cms in height. When you ask for a 'bica' the cup will be about 1/2 full of strong, black coffee.
- Café Curto ou 'italiano' is stronger still, the same amount of coffee but less water, your small cup will be about 1/4 - 1/3 full.
- Café cheio ou 'longo' is more water for the same amount of coffee grounds. Your cup would be about 3/4 full.
- Café pingado is a 'bica' with a few drops of milk (drop = pingo).
- 'Garoto' is the other way around: a small expresso cup with warm milk and a few frops of coffee. Traditionally this was the version for children, hence the name (garoto = a young boy).
- 'Carioca' is like a normal café but weaker - the same amount of water but it is the second serving of coffee with the coffee grounds already used for a bica.
Then there are the coffees with more milk:
- Meia de Leite is a little bigger cup, that is filled half and half with coffee and milk. If you want to taste the coffee, make sure you ask 'de máquina' so that your coffee is in fact expresso coffee. In some circumstances, if you don't specifically ask otherwise, it will be filtered coffee, which, with lots of milk, will be very weak.
- Um Galão is served in a tall glass and is about 1/3 or 1/4 of coffee, and the rest is hot milk. This is usually, amongst the Portuguese, a breakfast coffee only. The 'de máquina' rule applies here as well.
And what does this all cost? 60-90-1,20. This is the basic rule. 60 cents for a coffee, 90 cents for a meia de leite and 1,2 euros for a galão. This is when you are inside the coffee shop, or when there is, at the counter. If you are served to the table or especially if you are served out in the terrace, there are different prices for the same itens. Count with 30-100% extra (80-1,5-1,8). I did a quick survey in Sintra about the coffee prices. Cheapest coffee is at the 'Padaria' or the bakery in the middle of town: 55ç. Most expensive in the terraces: 1,8 or 1,9€ for a bica. And beware - there are a few places that have a price for 'cappuccino' (3-4€) but they will serve you either a meia de leite or meia de leite with whipped cream on top, and not necessarily a true capuccino. In The historical Center our clients have preferred the 'Padaria', 'Piriquita' and 'Village Café'.
The Portuguese coffee is very good. I love having the shops everywhere, and the opportunity to have the wonderful pastries with the coffee! The smell of the baked goods and strong coffee that lingers on the narrow streets in the morning is divine. I just advice you to check the prices charged for a coffee of the places by the door (all establishments must have the price list posted in a visible place near the entrance) so you know what to expect. And the pastries - that calls for another blog entry!
Comments
Can't wait to read the 'pastries' blog!